The Shanghai Museum of Art in the bustling Huangpu district of Shanghai, China has launched the inaugural edition of Drawing Inspiration from the Past: Masters of Modern and Contemporary Art, an exhibition series that intends to present works that reinterpret the values and aesthetics of traditional cultures, both Asian and Western. Wallace Chan: Half a Century treats audiences to the works of a leading jewellery artist of our times, who the exhibition’s webpage tells us is regarded as the ‘formidable Chinese’ among his European contemporaries. The exhibition runs from July 03 - October 07, 2024, and is co-curated by the Shanghai Museum and Nina Hald, Danish royal jewellery curator and freelance journalist. STIR connected with Chan to discuss his craft and his cross-cultural interactions with Western jewellery artists.

Over the course of five decades, the Chinese artist has worked with a wide range of gemstones and metals to create bespoke jewellery pieces that draw from Zen Buddhism and express a deep appreciation of nature. He has also drawn significant influence from Western cultures in his wearable design, which is apparent in pieces such as The Hours necklace. The necklace features a face carved into a brilliant 58.38-carat central aquamarine stone. The face on the necklace is inspired by Horae, the Greek goddesses of the seasons and the hours of the day.

My work creates a dialogue between the ancient and the modern, where each piece becomes a bridge connecting the wisdom of our ancestors with the innovations of today. – Wallace Chan, Jewellery artist

Chan is also an innovator in jewellery design, having created the ‘Wallace Chan Porcelain’, which is five times as strong as steel. Perhaps more famously, the contemporary artist is also credited with the ‘Wallace Cut’, which is a cutting technique that uses precise faceting (cutting out a flat surface) and reverse carving (carving into the back of a gem rather than the front) to create a three-dimensional effect. Below are excerpts from a conversation with STIR.

Manu Sharma: How does your work bridge historical and contemporary Chinese jewellery and how does this resonate with the Shanghai Museum?

Wallace Chan: My work creates a dialogue between the ancient and the modern, where each piece becomes a bridge connecting the wisdom of our ancestors with the innovations of today. I am deeply inspired by traditional Chinese art, philosophy and spirituality, which I incorporate into my creations. The Shanghai Museum, with its vast collection of historical treasures, resonates with my work as it serves as a sanctuary of the past — a place where time stands still, allowing us to contemplate the beauty and ingenuity of our heritage. My jewellery pays homage to these ancient arts, while also pushing the boundaries of what is possible in the contemporary realm. It is about preserving the soul of Chinese culture while breathing new life into it through modern techniques and materials.

Manu: How have your interactions with European jewellery artists shaped your practice?

Wallace: My interactions with European jewellery artists have been profoundly enriching. Europe is steeped in a history of artistry and craftsmanship that has evolved over centuries. Engaging with this tradition has opened my eyes to different approaches and perspectives, particularly in terms of technique and aesthetic sensibility. Yet, while I have learned much from these exchanges, my goal has always been to find a harmonious balance between Eastern and Western influences. I strive to create works that are a true synthesis - where each cultural element is respected and integrated into something that transcends its origins. This cross-pollination of ideas has enabled me to push the boundaries of my craft, leading to innovations that might not have been possible in isolation.

Manu: How do the gemstones and metals you use in your work celebrate nature?

Wallace: Nature is the greatest artist and I am but a humble student. The gemstones and metals I use are more than just materials; they are treasures of the Earth, imbued with the spirit of nature. When I work with these elements, I do so with a deep respect for their natural forms and energies. My goal is not to dominate or alter them beyond recognition, but to enhance their inherent beauty, allowing their natural essence to shine through. In this way, each piece becomes a celebration of the world around us - a reminder of the intricate and awe-inspiring creations of nature. The way light dances within a gemstone or how metal can be shaped into forms reminiscent of flora and fauna is, to me, a reverent tribute to the natural world.

Manu: What excites you the most about contemporary Chinese jewellery?

Wallace: Contemporary Chinese jewellery is an exciting field because it is in a state of constant evolution. There is a growing movement to redefine what it means to create jewellery in a modern Chinese context.

Manu: Finally, what is NEXT for you?

Wallace: I look forward to exhibiting my works at Annabel's London during Frieze week this October.

'Wallace Chan: Half a Century' is on at the Shanghai Museum East from July 3 - October 7, 2024.