Throughout history, the Arabian Peninsula has long served as a meeting point for different cultures and civilisations, not only through trade but also through the various peoples who settled in the area because of the abundance of natural resources offered by the oases that dot the landscape. Each has left its mark on the land here, adding to a rich and complex legacy that is only now truly becoming understood by the wider world.

Perhaps the most prominent of these ancient settlements is AlUla. Situated in the northwest of the Kingdom of Saudi Arabia, this amazing location is regarded by many as a 'living museum' as it is home to an incredible collection of both natural and human heritage, with preserved tombs, sandstone outcrops, historic dwellings and incredible monuments that span over 200,000 years of history. Yet, in recent years, AlUla has also become a pivotal element in the KSA's Saudi Vision 2030 initiative, transforming this remote desert locale into a vibrant centre of global cultural exchange and creativity for the modern day as well.

With so many tantalising mysteries and enticing new projects, the prospect of exploring this astonishing place had me immediately excited. The recent Ancient Kingdoms Festival provided the perfect excuse; a wonderful opportunity to experience both sides of AlUla—its storied past and its exciting present—together.

Despite its remoteness, AlUla is readily accessible by both road and air, although flying in over a lengthy drive is recommended, either way, visitors are immediately greeted by a spectacular landscape of ochre sand, towering rust-red stone and lush palm groves, far removed from the contemporary steel skyscrapers and tarmac highways of Riyadh.

With so many sites to see, it can be overwhelming trying to decide where to begin, but one cannot find a better introduction to AlUla than Old Town. This fascinating maze of winding streets and mud-brick dwellings—some of which go as far back as the 12^th century CE, including the hilltop fortress overlooking the town—is still inhabited to this day, its bustling souks filled with artisanal shops and traditional ware. However, the site is much more ancient, representing continuous waves of settlement and resettlement one after the other.

Having whetted my appetite for exploration, I struck out into the deeper desert, heading for the ruins of Dadan. Dating back to between the late ninth century BCE and the second century BCE, Dadan has served as the capital of the Lihyan and Dadan kingdoms, as well as an important trading post along the famed Incense Road. In the modern day, it remains one of the world’s most active and important archaeological sites, but visitors are permitted, allowing one to observe the teams of archaeologists working to excavate the ruins.

Perhaps the most striking features of the Dadan site, however, are the countless inscriptions carved into the sandstone that surrounds the valley; a wondrous epigraphic record that experts are still deciphering. These illuminate many aspects of the lives of the people who once lived here, from their laws and religious practices to agriculture, produce and social activities.

Dadan is also home to an impressive collection of tombs. Cut into the cliffs to the east of the city, some of these elaborately decorated funerary sites are some 50 metres above the ground, with experts still debating how they were made.

However, AlUla isn’t just for lovers of antiquity. The Ancient Kingdoms Festival programme encompassed many entertaining and elucidating experiences, all crafted to bring not only the history of AlUla but also its cultures and customs, to life.

Even something as simple as food can be a vessel for storytelling, perhaps best exemplified by the bespoke Oasis Picnics experience. Conceived by creative studio Bompas & Parr around the memories and dishes of local women, and using ingredients sourced from farmers and growers within the AlUla Valley, this unique, curated meal—hosted al fresco—presented me with a carefully balanced blend of traditional recipes and modern reinterpretations, delivered in a beautifully crafted traditional Saudi memory chest, with every morsel representing a different facet of oasis life, from crisp pickled melon and refreshing chilled juices to rich stews and tender, oven-roasted lamb.

I was also fortunate enough to be able to join a nighttime excursion to Jabal Ikmah—the latest addition to the KSA’s growing number of UNESCO World Heritage Sites, added in May 2023—for a spellbinding after-dark live projection show, in which the centuries-old inscriptions etched into the mountainside were transformed into constellations of dancing light that played across the desert landscape.

By far the highlight of my AlUla experience, however, was Hegra. Once the principal southern city of the Nabataean people, this historic site—also known as Al Hijr in Arabic—represents the single largest conserved Nabataean archaeological site, second only to Petra in Jordan. Boasting over 100 tombs and around 50 inscriptions, all of which have remained exceptionally well-preserved, I could only stand in awe of these colossal monuments to bygone civilisations, bathed in the soft, warm light of the sunset.

In its heyday, Hegra acted as a major nexus of international caravan trade. This interaction of different peoples and cultures is reflected in the architectural influences present throughout the ruins—with decorative elements taken from ancient Assyrian, Egyptian, and Greek styles—as well as multiple ancient languages, including Lihyanite, Thamudic, Greek and Latin.

It’s unsurprising then that Hegra was also the first World Heritage property to be inscribed in the KSA, with this year’s Ancient Kingdoms Festival coinciding with its 15^th anniversary as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.