A region's culture is in an intricate and nuanced web of innumerable threads—from the ones of beliefs and rituals to those of colours and craftsmanship. Traditional cuisines are another aspect of this rich cultural tapestry and encompass an elaborate model that connects farming, ritual practices, time-honoured skills, culinary techniques and community customs. Contemporary interaction with food, especially in dining spaces, is ironically dissociated from gastronomy—failing to elevate the act to an experience. In recent times, however, the world has witnessed more and more restaurants break away from the notions of ‘traditional dining’ to adopt more experiential concepts. This dining ambience shifts its focus from the crafted dishes to the crafting of those dishes; care to embark on a gastronomic voyage, perhaps?

Within the cocoon of a 19^th century house in the heart of Morelia City, Mexico, is a culinary haven harbouring the concoction of the culinary heritage of Mexican culture with the building’s oriental influences. Conceived by FMA., an architecture and design studio led by Francisco Méndez, Josafat Zalapa is an ode to Mexico’s unique cuisine and the country’s propensity towards earthy colours and materials. The restaurant design originates from a concept of creating a dining ambience inspired by the Japanese term Omakase, which encapsulates the essence of ‘I trust you’ or ‘the chef's selection.’ Through an exclusive dining encounter in a setting submerged in a monochromatic colour palette, visitors immerse themselves in a gastronomic experience—engaging actively as they observe their dishes coming to life.

Founded in 2018, FMA. has built an oeuvre of projects including commercial, hospitality, residential, and urban endeavours across Mexico, despite its small span of existence. Through their innovative ideas and infrastructure, they continue creating projects that aspire to have a significant societal impact. The studio has garnered attention through several national and international awards such as the 2023 PRISMA Award, the Firenze Entremuros Awards, and the 2023 Restaurant & Bar Design Awards, particularly in the categories of commercial interior design and restaurants. Their commitment to excellence and creativity in the field of architecture and design is furthered in Josafat Zalapa.

For this project, the Mexican architects dive into the process of adaptive reuse; the walls of the historic building, adorned with remnants that indicate the passage of time, become a backdrop for the scenes of a thriving present. Upon accessing the building, the visitors are welcomed by a corridor and a gallery ushering them to a cloister embellished with various artworks along its perimeter. In the centre, a sculptural piece featuring dead vegetation draws the eyes—emblematic of the time within the building. The setting greets people with a rustic charm animated by elements that tie it to the contemporary—a spirited duet of coexistence and revival.

The architectural layout of the restaurant and bar comprises two rooms adjacent to the central courtyard, flanked by Baroque architectural components. The main space features a sculptural bar with 20 designer chairs, while a second room with a bar is displayed on one side. As one enters the restaurant, the massive stone walls envelope the project's pièce de résistance: an elongated bar where patrons gather around the chef, preparing to witness a performance of culinary art. Through its interiors, the hospitality design achieves a balance between the architecture of the past and contemporary elements—an idea expressed across furniture design, decor and materials. The atmosphere achieved is introspective, elegant and sober—amplified further through tones and shades of brown rendering the entire space monochrome.

The concept of the bar and inviting the visitors to engage with the creation of food visually further emphasises the craft with which the dishes are prepared by the chef. Indirect lighting along the floor's edge frames the existing stone architecture—accentuating the layers of history that have been preserved over years and bringing forth their architectural value. During the intervention, particular care was taken with respect to lighting design and furniture integration. This culminated in the custom design of each element, from the linear lamp designs that accompany the bar, to the chair designs where diners will relish their meals. The material selection is stripped down to the essentials, incorporating wooden floors and pigmented cement coatings on the walls—a muted milieu wherein food and its creation are the protagonists.

The simple and warm Josafat Zalapa is an invitation for the onlookers to contemplate the essence and possibilities of adaptive reuse. As the and the present collide within the premise, the visitors indulge in revisiting their culinary heritage—within the restaurant, eras melt into each other. The Mexican designers stay respectful to the historical architecture of the place while thoughtfully intervening in the interiors, achieving a proposal that refuses to be pigeonholed to an era—contemporary flairs integrating seamlessly with the historical vestiges of the building.