In the ever-evolving landscape of contemporary art, video artists serve as alchemists, transforming pixels and sound waves into immersive experiences that bridge tradition with cutting-edge innovation. New York-based multidisciplinary artist Polina Zakharova stands at the forefront of this movement. As the co-founder of Hard Feelings Studio, her collaborative journey with Sveta Yermolayeva has not only redefined the boundaries of visual and auditory expression but has also positioned them as innovative pioneers within the industry. Beyond their groundbreaking work with major global brands and artists such as The Weeknd, Bad Bunny, Anyma, BAPE, MET Gala, Post Malone, Travis Scott, Palm Angels, and Drake, Zakharova’s artistic footprint resonates with a harmonious chaos mantra, seamlessly blending art, music, fashion, new media and audio art into a unique tapestry.

This visual artist’s foray into the world of high-end production, venue design and technology integration extends far beyond the commercial realm. Her personal exploration of contemporary art, coupled with a background in linguistics, has shaped an artistic approach that transcends aesthetics, delving into the nuanced depths of expression. The distinctive blend of tradition and the avant-garde defines her artistic identity, creating an unmistakable resonance in each project she undertakes.

Recently, the contemporary artistcollaborated with the legendary Italian fashion house Gucci and artist Es Devlin to craft the video art for the monumental Gucci Cosmos exhibition. Celebrating 102 years of Gucci’s legacy, this exhibition set against the backdrop of London’s 180 The Strand during Frieze London, serves as a testament to Zakharova’s artistic lead and creative direction. Working alongside Devlin and fashion theorist Maria Luisa Frissa, the artist curated an immersive archive, tracing the ideas and inventions set in motion by the creative directors and artisans of Gucci.

Within the exhibition, Zakharova’s cutting-edge technology and video art, created with collaborator Sveta Yermolayeva, present the fashion brand’s legacy and future in an innovative light, mediating upon heritage, luxury and interconnectedness. Her vision transforms the exhibition into a dance through time, where every frame captures the essence of an icon and projects it into the universe of the future. In an exclusive interview with STIR, Zakharova delves into her multidisciplinary approach, sharing insights into the challenges and triumphs faced in a male-dominated industry and the intricate process behind weaving the tapestry of Gucci’s 102-year legacy into moving visuals that bridge a century of innovation with limitless possibilities of tomorrow.

Aarthi Mohan: As the co-founder of Hard Feelings Studio, you and Sveta Yermolayeva have worked with major global brands and artists. What principles guide your multidisciplinary approach, and how do you navigate the intersection of art, music, fashion and technology in your work?

Polina Zakharova: At Hard Feelings Studio, our “harmonious chaos” mantra is all about mixing art, music, fashion, and tech into something uniquely stunning. We dive deep into each medium, creating a conversation between them to amplify the emotions. Whether it’s stage design or 3D visuals for the music industry, we are crafting visual stories that add an extra layer of emotion to music. And in fashion, like with Gucci, it's finding a way of honouring tradition while embracing the now. In essence, my work comes down to crafting feelings and beauty in new, unexpected ways.

Aarthi: Being one of the few women in high-end production, spatial design and technology integration, how do you see your role impacting the broader landscape of the industry? Have you faced any specific challenges or triumphs as a woman in this field?

Polina: Being a woman in this industry isn't just about overcoming challenges; it's about rewriting narratives. Our presence itself is a statement. We have seen recent shifts in attitudes and opportunities, but it's a continuous journey. Our triumph is not just in the projects we deliver but in the doors we open for future women leaders and artists in this space.

Aarthi: Could you walk us through the creative process behind Gucci Cosmos and how you, along with Es Devlin and Maria Luisa Frissa, approached the task of capturing 102 years of Gucci’s legacy within a visual and immersive experience?

Polina: Capturing Gucci's legacy in Gucci Cosmos was like weaving a tapestry of time. Working with Es Devlin and Maria Luisa Frisa, we delved into Gucci’s rich history, extracting essence rather than just milestones. Es, who invited us to collaborate on the video art and sound elements of the exhibition, created a mesmerising and intricate space where every detail has a meaning. Our brief was multi - dimensional: we obviously wanted to have the elements of recognition and at the same time tell the story in today’s visual language. Drawing inspiration from Gucci's diverse collections and aesthetic evolution, my aim was to create video art that resonates with the brand's timeless charm and today's sensibilities. This task involved weaving together a narrative that both honours Gucci's rich past and celebrates its present allure.

Aarthi: Gucci Cosmos is described as a dance through time. How did you choreograph this visual dance to ensure each frame captures the essence of Gucci’s iconic moments and projects it into the universe of the future?

Polina: Es Devlin described the exhibition as a maze of multiple imaginations, a fitting metaphor for its diverse and immersive spaces and I couldn’t agree more. Each room represents a distinct universe, capturing a different facet of Gucci. In the Twins room, the video art that we created was based on the selection of iconic looks that showcased Gucci's pioneering stance on unisex fashion, influencing societal norms and behaviours. The transitions between each look, integrating themes of nature and space, added an extra narrative layer, illustrating the concept of cosmos within you and reinforcing the House's innovative spirit.

Aarthi: Designing an exhibition involves communicating a curatorial idea. How do you believe the design of an exhibition can effectively convey a narrative, especially in the context of Gucci Cosmos, where you explore the fashion house’s ideas and inventions over the past century?

Polina: I think that design in general is an incredible narrator, guiding visitors through a century of fashion innovation, making each room, each display, each video art piece each sound an intimate conversation between the past and the present. I’ll take the Carousel room as an example, it is a very unique one from the perspective of design in my opinion: it displays 25 mannequins wearing Gucci clothing from the 1970s to the present day. As the looks rotate around the conveyor belt illustrations by UK-based artists and Chinese artists (first exhibition edition was in Shanghai) are projected onto a gauze screen. We played a little corpse game with artists, where one artist wouldn’t know the preceding part of the storyline. I loved finding and narrating the human touch that intertwined with the brand's grand legacy.

Aarthi: In your experience, how does spatial design contribute to storytelling within an exhibition, and are there specific design elements in Gucci Cosmos that you believe are particularly effective in conveying the intended message?

Polina: One of my favourite rooms is Zoetrope that celebrates the house's equestrian inspirations. It’s a perfect example of how physical space is becoming alive with video art: you enter the room and all of a sudden lights go down and you feel the presence of the galloping horse, you see its raw power, its poetic freedom, you hear its breathing and steps resonating with the voice over that reads the equestrian terms as mantra.

Aarthi: In your role as a creative director and a video artist, you have worked with a diverse range of artists, including The Weekend, Tale of Us, Post Malone and Drake. How do you approach tailoring your creative expression to align with each artist’s unique style and vision while maintaining your own identity?

Polina: I think that authenticity is key. I dive into their music, trying to understand their unique messages, searching for the essence, suggesting my vision. This process is like a visual conversation, where we speak through the universal language of beauty. Maintaining your own taste and style is crucial, as it brings a distinct flavour to the collaboration, making it richer and more dynamic. It’s about merging different perspectives, sharing experiences, and viewing the world through varied lenses. This diversity in creation enriches the artistic expression, resulting in works that resonate with a broader audience and carry a deeper, more multifaceted meaning.

Aarthi: You have mentioned the use of cutting-edge technology in your work. How do you balance technology with traditional artistic elements to create an immersive experience that resonates emotionally with the audience?

Polina: My approach is to use technology not just as a flashy add-on, but as a tool to deepen the emotional impact of the art. It's about creating harmony where each element, both old and new, plays its part in making people feel. I don’t chase the latest tech for its own sake. Imagine traditional art as a timeless melody and technology as a way to drop a crazy remix that breathes new life into it or it's like retelling a story that's been told for ages but with a voice and tone that speak to the here and now. In creating immersive experiences, it's not about overwhelming the audience with technology, but rather using it to enhance the beauty of the message.

Aarthi: Can you share a personal anecdote or moment from your career that significantly shaped your approach to art and design?

Polina: My journey began in contemporary art, where I learned the value of depth beyond mere aesthetics. This background, combined with my studies in linguistics, has become unexpectedly valuable in the era of artificial intelligence. Understanding the nuanced power of language has become instrumental in translating complex ideas into impactful designs.

Aarthi: Considering your global recognition as a creative innovator, how do you stay inspired and continue to push creative boundaries in an ever-evolving industry?

Polina: I find it extremely inspiring to be able to collaborate with the top talents in the industry as well as finding new talents and be able to learn from them too. Constant learning and challenging yourself as well as keeping an eye on what’s going on around across all the industries and mediums, not limiting yourself to only creatives: for me it’s being curious about art, music, architecture, fashion but also what’s going on in the realm of AI and robotics, and the gaming industry. If you don’t look into it, you might miss out on some fun discoveries. It's a cycle of learning, reflecting, trying, failing, creating again. Repeat.

Aarthi: Looking ahead, what’s next on your creative agenda?

Polina: As a multidisciplinary artist I am always on a journey to explore and create: producing music has been my new focus lately but also exploring physical mediums through metal sculpture as well as deepening my love of visual art.

The Gucci Cosmos exhibition was on view from October 11 - December 31, 2023, in London at 180 The Strand during Frieze London.