"Of the utmost importance for this Way (of Tea) is dissolving the boundaries between Japanese and foreign art objects. One must attend to this with care,” wrote Murata Jukō—as translated by Kyoto-based professor and Budhhism expert Dennis Hirota—in the Letter of the Heart to Furuichi Hōshi in 15th century Japan. Known for transforming the Japanese tea ceremony from an aristocratic divertissement to a spiritual experience, Jukō, often referred to as the Godfather of Sabi, spearheaded the definition, growth and international recognition of the Japanese concept of Wabi-sabi. Inspired by Zen Buddhism, wabi-sabi is the Japanese art of valuing the beauty of imperfections and acceptance of life’s natural cycle. Originating in ancient China, it is deeply embedded in all facets of Japanese culture. As he introduced the Japanese Way to the world, Jukō emphasised the sensitivity and sensibility required to realise multi-cultural fusion, preserving the respective identities while staying true to the concept.

Striving to achieve such balance and authenticity between the Japanese and Western culture is architect Jo Nagasaka, founder of Tokyo-based Japanese architecture practice Schemata Architects, who fuses wabi-sabi design principles with the identity of renowned fragrance brand Le Labo for their latest flagship store in the heritage city of Kyoto. “I first became aware of the brand in 2016, when many factory-style stores, such as Blue Bottle Coffee and Dandelion Chocolate, were emerging in Europe and the United States. I was walking down the streets of London when I chanced upon Le Labo’s distinctive space, with its striking matte black steel storefront reminiscent of a laboratory,” recalls the Japanese architect as the in-store laboratory concept left a lasting impression on him. Nagasaka encountered several stores of the 2006-established unconventional perfumery in the following years and was ecstatic when asked to design its flagship store in Japan.

Le Labo’s spatial identity was shaped right from the get-go when its first lab in New York City featured exposed materials, hot rolled steel fixtures and vintage interior design. Upon learning the brand’s intention of transforming an almost 150-years-old machiya (traditional townhouse) situated on the historical Kiyamachi street in Kyoto, the architect acknowledged the brand’s design sensibility of finding beauty in used objects and designed a retail space embodying the wabi-sabi approach. To achieve a harmonious design that resonates conceptually and contextually, the architect deliberated with the brand’s creative director Deborah Royer on everything from the broader idea to minute design details of the project. “While it was essential for this project to share the same philosophy, we both collectively felt it necessary to create a store that reflects the local and historical context of this old machiya in Kyoto because it is structurally and stylistically different from the concrete buildings that have housed their stores,” shared Nagasaka.

The architects subtly preserve the aesthetics of the original house, echoing the essence of the neighbouring machiya, introducing the store using minimalistic signage on a traditional noren fabric divider. A wooden console table defines the entrance foyer as the visitor’s curiosity is piqued by the Labo booth, where laboratory equipment and perfumery ingredients are displayed on the countertop and shelves. While the framed glass windows and backdrop of the booth complement the slender wooden details of the facade design, the tori-doma area utilises horizontal elements such as the shelving, the basins and the flooring, urging visitors to venture later towards the courtyard and cafe. As the eyes wander on the expansive tori-doma display, they eventually rest on concrete signage of the retail room over an elevated potted plant, grounding the visitors to be in the present and experience the space. Natural light from the large glass windows illuminates the retail room while the traditional zen garden connects visitors to the built environment. The wooden staircase, crafted in a manner reminiscent of Japanese sensibility, ascends to private areas accessible only to the support staff.

“This Japanese-style space is set in an ancient city where traditional culture is deeply rooted and distinctly different from modern cities in Japan,” informs Nagasaka. “By carefully connecting and blending the machiya building with new fixtures, furniture, and products, it embodies the spirit of Le Labo, which treats time, age, craftsmanship, handiwork, and textures with great care.” The adaptive reuse project honours the former residential building by preserving several architectural elements while carefully integrating new ones. Components such as lighting fixtures are discreetly concealed within wood panelling on the ceilings and walls, seamlessly blending with the original structure.

The interior design, rustic and grounded, embraces the exposed, often worn-out spatial elements, highlighting its inherent character. Tatami floor mats and walls painted in vintage colours of bengara (red earth pigment) and shoen (pine soot) are used in combination with exposed concrete walls and polished concrete floors. Creating a visual identity rooted in cultural context while also creating distinct zones in the space that underline its respective functions. The modern perfumery equipment and glass containers placed against the vintage wooden furniture bring a sense of balance and harmony to the commercial space. Le Labo’s Kyoto retail store celebrates raw, authentic materials, embracing imperfections and honouring the passage of time.