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Craftsmanship meets nostalgia: Hermès' showcase at Milan Design Week 2024

Complemented by intricate floor patterns, the French fashion house’s exhibit in Milan reflects a connection with the earth, materiality and tradition that defines its artistry.

by Zeynep Rekkali JensenPublished on : Apr 23, 2024

Milan Design Week is a highly anticipated event that is a zenith of creative expression every year in Italy, where the world's foremost designers converge to unveil their latest design innovations and inspirations. One of the most eagerly awaited highlights of the design event was the Hermés showcase The Topography of Material, held at the iconic venue La Pelota. The juxtaposition of objects from the Hermès archives alongside their new works at this year's display evoked the adage "something old, something new, something borrowed," eliciting a sense of nostalgia and underscoring the brand's deep-rooted history and enduring legacy.

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Hermès drew visitors on a journey through the annals of its rich heritage, juxtaposed against the backdrop of contemporary design Image: © Maxime Verret

Hermès at this year's design week was akin to stepping into a realm where history, tradition, and innovation intertwined seamlessly. The exhibition space embodied artistic mastery reminiscent of a fusion between the Natural History Museum's element displays and the Victoria Albert Museum's costume section. Upon entering, visitors were greeted by intricate floor patterns, transporting them to the remnants of a grand ancient Roman villa. The use of raw materials like brick, stone, slate, wood, and compacted earth created a captivating scene illustrating the zigzags of a jockey's silk jersey—a poignant nod to the brand's rich cultural legacy. This evocative portrayal is a testament to Hermès' deep-rooted connection to the equestrian world, a motif that permeates its collections often. Within this atmospheric setting of the design fair in Milan, Hermès drew visitors on a journey through the annals of its rich heritage, juxtaposed against the backdrop of contemporary design installation.

Visitors were greeted by intricate floor patterns, transporting them to the remnants of a grand Ancient Roman villa
Visitors were greeted by intricate floor patterns, transporting them to the remnants of a grand Ancient Roman villa Image: © Maxime Verret

At the heart of Hermès' showcase was a celebration of craftsmanship and heritage, a testament to the brand's enduring legacy and its commitment to excellence. The display, drawing inspiration from the theme of grounding, explored the intrinsic connection between humanity and the earth, inviting the audience to admire the brand's dedication to its roots.

The display, drawing inspiration from the theme of grounding, explores the intrinsic connection between humanity and the earth
The display, drawing inspiration from the theme of grounding, explores the intrinsic connection between humanity and the earth Image: © Maxime Verret

Objects from the brand's illustrious archives were displayed in harmony with the latest additions to its repertoire. A standout feature of the exhibition was the Diapason d'Hermès lounge chair, showcased alongside the Timoure necklace in hammered silver, originating from Hermés' 2002 collection and sourced from the Hermès Conservatoire of Creations. The new Diapason d'Hermès lounge chair, crafted in leather and hammered aluminium, boasts a bold and refined silhouette, complementing the intricate design of the necklace. Crafted in modernist tradition by Studio Hermès, this lounge chair catalyses to blend contrasting materials with a strong sense of formal design. Its structured appearance is achieved through two pieces of leather forming the seat and back, gracefully mounted on a hammered aluminium frame.

The Diapason d'Hermès lounge chair, showcased alongside the Timoure necklace
The Diapason d'Hermès lounge chair, showcased alongside the Timoure necklace Image: © Maxime Verret

The Voltige d'Hermès lamp, another notable highlight, was presented alongside a hunting whip featuring a hook crafted from deer antler, a silver ferrule, and a braided cowhide mount dating back to the 1980s. This new line of lamps complements the equestrian theme and features a sleek stem crafted from braided two-tone leather, a lampshade made of slub linen with leather piping, and a patinated base finished in bronze style. The lamp plays with a captivating blend of textures, materials, and colours. Its components include a two-tone braided leather stem, a base made of bronze-style waxed brass, and a linen lampshade adorned with leather trim.

The Voltige d'Hermès lamp was presented alongside a hunting whip featuring a hook crafted from deer antler
The Voltige d'Hermès lamp was presented alongside a hunting whip featuring a hook crafted from deer antler Image: © Maxime Verret

Hermés unveiled the Derby collection, breaking new ground by infusing traditional saddlery and leatherworking techniques into a line of utilitarian objects. Comprising a basket, bucket, and centrepiece, the collection is meticulously crafted from Epsom leather. Embracing the versatility of the material, the collection delves into the realms of construction, scale, colour, and geometry. Hand-pierced and stitched strips of the coloured leather coil form the basket's unique luxury design, while the centrepiece showcases intricate leather marquetry with graphic motifs. Leveraging the mastery of the brand's artisans, supple leather is transformed into durable objects crafted with exceptional skill.

The Derby Bucket, presented in tandem with the Mangeoire bag in green box calfskin, 1949
The Derby Bucket, presented in tandem with the Mangeoire bag in green box calfskin, 1949 Image: © Maxime Verret

A subsequent notable feature of the design exhibition was the Tressages équestres dinner service, meticulously crafted by designer Virginie Jamin. Reflecting the profound connection between horse and rider, the 27 pieces of this new dinnerware collection intricately depict the passementerie and braiding found on horse harnesses. Presented alongside a horse strap made of fine cotton rope from the 1950s, which inspired the patterns, the collection showcases Jamin's airy, textured designs against a kaolin white porcelain backdrop. Natural leather bows and cotton ties, adorned with touches of mint green, lemon yellow, or petrol blue, further enhance the elegance of the pieces.

Tartan Dye bed blanket, presented in tandem with the jockey’s jersey in silk satin, the 1950s
Tartan Dye bed blanket, presented in tandem with the jockey’s jersey in silk satin, the 1950s Image: © Maxime Verret

An intricate hand-painted jewellery box, appliqué bedspreads, and embroidered gloves from the Hermés archives further manifested Hermès' mastery of materials and techniques. Each piece was ingrained with a sense of history and tradition while simultaneously representing the brand's vision for the future.

Discovering Hermès' exhibition at Milan Design Week 2024 felt like embarking on a journey through time, where the past met the future. The design festival was filled with an extraordinary interplay of contradictions and possibilities, attesting to the brand's enduring legacy, epitomising timeless sophistication.

Stay tuned to STIR's coverage of Milan Design Week 2024 which showcases the best of exhibitions, studios, designers, installations, brands and events to look out for. Explore EuroCucina and all the design districts—Fuorisalone, 5vie Design Week, Isola Design Week, Brera Design District and Porta Venezia Design District.

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Craftsmanship meets nostalgia: Hermès' showcase at Milan Design Week 2024

Complemented by intricate floor patterns, the French fashion house’s exhibit in Milan reflects a connection with the earth, materiality and tradition that defines its artistry.

by Zeynep Rekkali Jensen | Published on : Apr 23, 2024